Yarn Tasting How-Tos

Yarn Tastings are popping up everywhere.  What are they?  What do they cost?  What do you bring?  Can you throw your own?  Let's jump right in.

The goal of the whole endeavor is for knitters to use or collect a "taste" a variety of yarns and fibers, without the financial investment or commitment of buying a whole skein. This is particularly handy with the more expensive fibers.  Sometimes specific yarn manufacturers or distributors host their own tastings, and all fibers involved are from that single outlet.  Other times, the sky is the limit in what you may discover.

This is some info on how the most frequent tastings work.  When a yarn shop has samples made, there are often ball ends remaining.  These are weighed out and labeled in 1oz skeins, or 20yds, or some standard size, and saved.  Sometimes distributors and manufacturers supply sample skeins, or offer new yarns at an attractive introductory price.  These skeins are sometimes broken down into tasting skeins, too.

The party invitations go out, in one of two common formats: either it's a fixed price for a certain number of "tastes", or each taste has a very distinct price based on its cost to the shop.  When you arrive at the event, there are usually a few activities, sometimes a speaker, and the tastes are distributed, often by price level.  Certain ticket prices access certain "taste" levels. 

The highest priced yarns are often the hardest for a shop owner to sell, as they represent the biggest investment per yard.  Cashmere, camel, and suri alpaca are all lovely to work with, but how do you know if they will work with your project?  You need to swatch, and at $25 - $60 a skein, how many swatches can you afford?  With a yarn tasting, you can afford to make more swatches.  Is there a sock or lace yarn you've always wanted to try?  Tasting is a great way to meet new yarns that require a large amount of yardage to complete a project.  And it's a great way to test out novelty yarns, and see if they're a good fit for your next project.

Can you throw your own?  Sure.  Save and thoroughly label your ball ends from your projects, and encourage your friends or knitting club to do the same.  When you feel like you each have some interesting ball ends (say three or four that many of you haven't used yet) plan to get together over some coffee or a glass of wine.  Usually the rule in the informal tastings is "one in, one out".  That is you can take as many ball ends as you bring to the party, within whatever rules chosen by the group.  (If one person brings 15, and everyone else brings 4, it ends up a little strange!)

You don't have to do this formally.  You can just save your ball ends and exchange them with a friend without involving other people.  You don't even need to have a project in mind.  Just remember to label your finished swatches with the yarn and needle info, so when you're ready to use the yarn in your project, you remember exactly what you used!

Winter Color Knits

It's my favorite time of year.  Time to shop and cast on winter knits!  Winter knitting is traditionally filled with colorwork.  How do you choose the colors that are right for you?  With a little thought, you'll love it every time.  (See other colorwork tutorials. Type Colorwork in the search box.)

The traditional color circle, based on red, yellow and blue, was developed by Sir Isaac Newton in 1666.  It is very difficult, if not impossible, for any color wheel/chart/diagram/ to demonstrate all the colors visible to the human eye with accuracy and in a useful format.  Because of this challenge, thousands of different wheels have been developed over the years.  In reality, any color chart that presents a logically arranged sequence of colors has merit.
 

As an example, you may find a chart of “cool” colors.  These are usually colors with an undertone of some blue, and also often light and pastel colors.  “Warm” colors are usually with a red undertone or hue, and deeply saturated colors.  “Earth” tones often have an element of brown in them, making them rich, but at the same time muted.  “Desert” tones have an undertone of yellow or gold.  “Victorian” colors tend to have an undertone of gray, giving a soft, slightly aged effect.  Any of these ideas could be demonstrated in a wheel, but it gets very complex to demonstrate them all in the same wheel.
 

Pick a Color Story.  When blending colors, you want them to have a relationship to each other so that the observer likes the combination.  How?  A color story.  In general, a “color story” is the feeling, mood, attitude, or analogy created by grouping certain colors.  If you wanted to generate a color story that evoked a dairy farm, you might consider a barn red, grassy green, black and white for the cows, a sky blue, and a golden hay color.  Even if you then use these colors to make a market bag, it will have a country feeling to it.  Once you’ve established your own color story, pairing and grouping colors within it will be much easier. 

 

When in doubt, go with multiple shades of the same color.  A fern green and a pine green make a lovely piece, as do maroon and rose pink.  Not your style?  Try your favorite hue and mix it with white, cream, black, or chocolate for a classic look.

Life and Family and a Blanket

It's been a long, strange summer.  I was very ill this spring and summer, as was my father in law.  I recovered, but sadly, he did not.  Lou is in the final days/weeks of his life, and he's still teaching us all.

Lou went from being uncomfortable to being hospitalized over the period of a couple of weeks.  He is in incredible pain, but he never complains.  He's calm, patient, funny, and dignified.  His only concerns are for the welfare of his family.  Though bedridden at home now, he still wants to babysit his great-grandchildren.  Though unable to keep solid food down, he still tried his granddaughter's "healthy" smoothie, to be polite.  It didn't go well, but I'll never forget the gesture.

I wanted to help him somehow, and as a knitter I realized making an afghan would be a natural choice.  His favorite color is blue - "not too dark, but like the sky today.  It's always been blue."  But by the time I had sourced the yarn, I realized I'll never finish it in time for him to see or enjoy it. 

I'm doing the standard family vigil, caring for my mother in law, doing her housekeeping, serving coffee to out of town relatives, and hearing all the family stories that go by in these times.  Everyone is laughing and visiting, including Lou.  He once had a red convertible, and my mother in law used to drive it when they were dating even though she hadn't had lessons or a license.  Lou's grandfather used to make wine in the basement, and he had a special way of leaving the spigot so he could tell if anyone had been "tasting" it.  The "kids", now in their late fifties, just learned how he always caught them! 

Lou greets and thanks each visitor for coming.  He stays awake and makes conversation for hours, but the moment guests leave he closes his eyes and sleeps.  He doesn't do it out of pride.  It's respect for the people who've made the effort to visit.  Even though he's too weak to walk, he wants to holds the babies.  He'll keep tasting the food pressed on him by well-meaning loved ones.  That's Lou - kind, funny, respectful, patient, and dignified.  He's shown us how to live, and he's teaching us how to die.

I think I'll make the blanket anyway.  It will be impossible to work on it or use it without thinking of the kind man who inspired it.  I'll share the pattern with you soon.

Intarsia In The Round

Knitting intarsia in the round is very much the same as knitting it flat.   If you're not familiar with knitting intarsia flat, click here for an earlier tutorial.  Both of these lessons are from my Intro to Colorwork class, available at Rhinebeck, Toronto's Creativ, and other festivals this summer and fall.

The best way to do this is to just do it.  We're going to make a quick swatch.  You'll need two circs of the same size, and three colors of yarn in a corresponding weight.  Cast on 15 stitches in color A on one circular needle.  Cast on 15 stitches of color B on another circular needle.  Now, holding the needles together with A in front so the working yarns both come from the right side,* twist the 2 yarns together.  Knit across A with A.  Do not turn.  Purl across B with B.  Turn.  Twist the yarns together once.  Purl across A with A.  Do not turn.  Knit across B with B. Turn.*   Repeat these two rounds.

As you can see, essentially you’re working  each color as you would on straight needles.  The only change is that you need to twist the yarns together at the end of each row, just like you did in intarsia.  Several rounds of this process produces a tube which is one color on one side and a different one on the other.  The same basic technique can be used to achieve simple intarsia patterns in the round that don't end at the end of a needle.  You just work the same technique one color at a time.

Now let’s introduce a third color.  On the A color side, let’s knit every second stitch in color C, and keep everything else the same.  When we turn the work to purl, we’ll work the A stitches with C, and the C stitches with A.  You are building a tiny checkerboard pattern, which will be a little tighter, and twice as thick, as the fabric on the other needle.  This technique can be a practical benefit when done on only one of the two needles.

This type of color combining creates a beautiful effect in socks, mittens, hats, sleeves, and any other knitting in the round.  Spice up a single colored pattern, or reinforce palms and soles of the feet.  By adding a second yarn to the “wear” side of a garment, you’re adding life by adding durability.  And it’s always nice to do it in color.

Of course, if you wish, you can perform this two color technique on each needle.  When working in this way, each color needs to stay on its own needle, so even if you wanted to use color C on the front and back of the work, you would need to be working from two separate balls of C, just like you would in flat intarsia. 

Work this swatch until you create neat, firm, closed seams between colors that do not pucker.  The only way to even out your tension at the color changes is to practice.  Once you have it, it's like riding a bike - you'll never forget it!

More with Foster Sheep Farm

Antique Wrought Iron Sheep Toy

It's been a crazy week here, with my father-in-law being hospitalized within hours of my return home from my wonderful weekend teaching classes at Foster Sheep Farm in Schuylerville, NY.  What is going on with everyone being so sick?  It's been one of those years...

Antique Yarn Spool Lamps

As much as I know my knitting info cold, I'm a bit of a spaz in the rest of my life.  As I drove to Schuylerville from Buffalo, I realized I'd packed everything except the undies, which were still in the dryer.  (Thank you, Target.)  I'd arranged to sleep in the yarn shop thanks to Carol Foster's kind offer, forgetting that my wool allergy might be an obstacle.  (Thank you, Benadryl.)  The screen on my phone wasn't working so I missed all my texts.  (No thank you, Samsung.)  And I left my camera in a coffee shop, severely limiting my ability to take photos to share with you. (Thank you, Abby Foster, for use of yours.) 

Mitten Form for Drying
 Mittens Fireside

As this is not an uncommon set of details for me (I wish it were, but alas, I'm really a spaz) it came as no surprise that one of the texts I missed was important.  It was from Carol Foster, my hostess, offering me a tour of Battenkill Fibers, a spinnery near the farm.  Mary Jean Packer is the owner and operator, and although she was in the middle of an order for Tahki (a brand new yarn that is Oh, so cool!) she took the time to show me around.  (Yep. More Benadryl.  A girl has to breathe.)  I'll share more about this in another post.










After my groovy tour of the spinnery, I was revved for day 2 of classes at Foster Sheep Farm.  The group was there for a class of Shaping Techniques which shows alternatives for shaping.  Different yarns take shaping techniques differently.  Something that makes a smooth decrease in a silk/linen blend may make a lumpy one in cotton.  We made a variety of shapes in a dozen ways. 

The shop is dotted with early American antiques, many of them knitting-related, located in an old farmhouse.  I couldn't help thinking that there was energy from dozens of knitters who came before us, original owners of the antiques and the farm, right there with us.  The quiet of the rainy day in the country made it all the more memorable.

Foster Sheep Farm Classes

Over the weekend I was fortunate enough to teach at The Yarn Shop at Foster Sheep Farm in Schuylerville, NY.  (It's about 20 minutes outside of Saratoga Springs.)  I met lovely people, and had a terrific time!

The shop is located on a working sheep farm in a truly bucolic setting.  Inside, it's decorated with a trove of early american antiques piled high with very high quality fibers. 

As a sheep farmer and expert spinner, Carol Foster is an ideal guide to the world of fiber.  Her understanding of wool, spinning, plying, and knitting combine into outstanding recommendations of fiber and technique to make any project a success. She's also a baker, and both days I taught there were delicious baked good snacks provided to customers and the folks in class.  (I was partial to the mixed berry pie with ice cream.)

The students were all knitters who were spinners as well, and they were hilarious.  Each one brought a unique attitude, and we had a terrific time.  This weekend was the first time I taught the new Simple and Surprising Shaping Techniques class.  It was a success, in spite of a few mis-steps on my part. 

Finding Salvation

I needed to visit the amazing Colleen, assistant extraordinaire, today.  On the way home, I stopped at the Salvation Army Thrift Store to drop off some of my daughter's outgrown clothes.  Usually they want you to drop off around in the back.  Not today.  I had to go through the store.  Guess what?  Surprisingly to me, the place is a knitter's bargain basement.  I walked around waiting my turn to donate, and found multiple pots of gold.

In the book area, I found three different knitting books.  They were all ones I had, but good ones none the less.  There was a classic Barbara Walker, an excellent Jacqueline Fee, and recent Melissa Leapman. $2 each for hardcovers.  Oooooh!  Okay.  Maybe I'll nose around after my turn.

And nose around I did.  In the housewares area, there was a garment steamer.  Any knitter who blocks their work will tell you that a garment steamer is the fastest way to block anything, and  $6 is definitely the right price.  A couple of shelves over, some very large canning pots would be great for dyeing projects.  $2.  In arts and crafts, several skeins of high end yarn (Gefrida, Knit 1 Purl 2, Louet).   $1 ea. Yep, this is good stuff.

In the kitchen department there were 8 sundae glasses for 50 cents each.  That would be perfect for a yarn tasting at the Knitting Guild or LYS.  An old wooden changing table with two shelves ($11) would be a great storage/display for baby yarns.  A teapot without a lid (75 cents) is a perfect yarn bowl - put the working yarn through the spout and never have the yarn roll across the room again!

In shoes and luggage there were easily a dozen different tote bags perfect for a project bag, many of which still had their tags on and hadn't been used.  In the window was a huge empty apothecary jar that would make a joyful display piece for a dozen balls of color-saturated wools.  So would the very large fishbowl.  And the wine rack.  Okay, I need to get out of here while there's still room in the car for the kids. 

If you've never shopped at a charity thrift store, you should know that the money you spend goes to support the charity.  Purchases should be checked before you buy, as it's an As-Is situation.  If you're a non-smoker or an allergic person, you may want to give things a cursory sniff.  And everything that can be cleaned should be, on principle.  A little Lysol goes a long way.  Loosely skein your yarns you've bought and wash lightly in SOAK or Woolite or shampoo.  Hang 'em to dry away from the sun to avoid fading.  For a fraction of full price, you'll have some fresh and lovely new knitting tools and stash members.

10 Ways to Knit Faster

There are dozens of articles in magazines and websites about knitting faster, and in general they all tell you the same thing: Knit continental style, use big needles and big yarn, and knit uncomplicated patterns.  Yes, all of those things will help you knit faster.  But I'm thinking you probably knew that already.  What about knitting the stuff you want to knit, complex or small needle, or English style?  Can we knit those things faster?

Yes.  Here's how.

1. Learn to cable without a needle.  This works for smaller cables, but is less successful on cables that are 4 over 4 and larger.  If you have any trouble with too-tight tension, this will not be successful, so be forewarned.  Slip your right needle into the stitches that need to change position from the back or front, whichever way the pattern dictates.  Slip the first stitches destined to be a cable off the needle, and carefully transfer the unknit stitches from the right needle onto the left needle.  Carefully slip the left needle back into the remaining stitches of the cable.  Now knit!  It's pretty easy, and saves time. 

2. Use slippery needles.  The "action" on needles is a reference to how quickly and smoothly the yarn will move across the needles as you work.  Metal needles are usually have the quickest action, and nickel tend to be the fastest among metal.  If you're using circs, look for circs with a very smooth joint between the cable and the needle.  It makes a huge difference.

3. Limit distractions.  It's much easier to knit quickly when you're not dividing your attention in any significant way.  Listening to a book on tape or to the radio allows your eyes to stay on your knitting - not too distracting.  Helping the children with their math homework usually means shifting your visual focus to the book or worksheet, and concentrating on problem-solving and teaching - very distracting!  Try to keep your eyes on your work!

4. Commit to a schedule.  Commit to a certain number of rows per knitting session.  It's enough to keep you moving along when your project or schedule is throwing up roadblocks.  If you usually manage 6 rows at a sitting, commit to 7.  If you pass 7 and want to keep going, you'll still own yourself 7 more rows at your next sitting.

5. Swatch.   Swatches are knitting scrap paper.  Learn new skills on a simple narrow swatch.  You won't waste time ripping back rows of your project because your design element "looks funny".  Swatch it once or twice until you like it, then work it into your project.

6. Use stitch markers.  Any of these uses will speed up your process: Mark the edges of a design element so you don't have to count.  Place a stitch marker at the beginning of rounds.  Place a stitch marker every 10 stitches on wider projects.

7. Knit in the round.   Knitting in the round speeds your work in several ways.  It eliminates a certain amount of seaming.  It eliminates the need to turn and adjust your work.  And since most patterns have more knit stitches than purl stitches, and most people knit faster than they purl, knitting in the round has you spend more time knitting the fast stitches.

8. Use fast yarn.  What makes a yarn slow?  Anything that makes it hang up on itself.  Most novelty yarns are slower to knit, as are mohairs and other yarns with a halo.  Boucle yarns are notorious for hanging up.  Lower quality yarns that split and pill also create unnecessary obstacles to navigate.  Use high quality high twist yarns whenever possible to help maintain a smooth rhythm.

9. Read through the entire pattern first.  I know, it's not very sexy, but it really helps. The whole pattern, line by line.  If something is unclear, figure it out before you start knitting.  Swatch if you need to.  The farther into the pattern you are when you get stuck, the less likely you are to finish your project.

10. Take good care of your hands.  Dry hands, hang nails, and rough nails and cuticles are uncomfortable, cause the yarn to snag, and slow you down.  Thoroughly wash your hands and moisturize with a deep moisturizer at bedtime every day.  (Don't moisturize right before you knit!  Moisturizer gets transferred onto the yarn, making dirt cling to the yarn.)  File your nails regularly to maintain smooth edges.  When you have to wash dishes or do some house cleaning, wear rubber gloves.  Gently stretch your fingers and wrists several times per day to maintain flexibility and good blood flow.  Not only will your skin on your hands be healthier and more supple, they will do a better job with your knitting.

Knitting Without Guilt

I think we've all been touched by the amazing work various charitable organizations have done over the years, be it the Red Cross, or Toys for Tots, or Habitat for Humanity.  We see people step outside their own routines to reach out and help others, and we are deeply moved and impressed.  Most of us have charities that hold a special meaning for us personally, to combat an illness or problem we or our loved ones face. 

I made it a New Year's Resolution to do more charitable knitting this year.  I'm ahead of last year, but still not as far along as I'd like.  For me part of the disconnect is knowing what knitting projects are right for what charity.  I have an extravagant stash, and all want to knit sorts of things I can't use.  The trick is pairing the project with the charity.  In case you're having that same dilemma, let me direct you to the charities below:

Caps for a Cure is a group supporting cancer centers around the country with chemo caps.  Visit their website for recommended patterns, or for the address to send completed projects.

Hats For the Homeless is a group that distributes hats, gloves, mittens, and scarves to the homeless of NYC.  For those not familiar with northeast winters, nights are routinely in the 20s and below from November through April in NY, and these garments are seriously needed.  On this site is information on how to arrange to become a donor, and also how to coordinate a garment drive in your area.

The Mother Bear Project is just the thing for all of us who love to knit toys!  The recipients of the bears are children who have been orphaned or affected by HIV/AIDS.  These lovely toys have been distributed throughout the African continent, bringing comfort to over 76 thousand children.

For all you blanket knitters, and especially for those who love to knit children's blankets, Project Linus is an amazing charity operating in all 50 states.  Named for the classic Peanuts character who was never without his trusty blanket, they supply blankets to children in need in a variety of situations including hospitals and social service centers, and more. 

If none of these organizations tickle your fancy, ask your LYS for a list of local charities who want knitted goods.  Local hospitals and cancer centers, nursing and rehabilitation facilities, Meals on Wheels, Department of Child and Family Services, and churches/synagogues/mosques all have periodic needs, drives, and distribution networks.  Check with your local outlets.  You'll find a charity that matches your love of knitting and your existing stash with projects you're excited to make.  The knitting is that much more enjoyable when you know it's going to an excellent cause.

Building Your Knitting Skills With Books

Knitting is one area of life where we learn best by doing.  We can read about knitting, watch someone else, or study a completed garment, but nothing gives you the muscle memory and even tension that experience will develop.  So why do people try to learn to knit from books?

For me pride is involved.  I know I hate when I'm in a class working on a new skill and I'm having a hard time picking it up.  I don't want to hold up the class, and I feel a lot of pressure to figure it out, so I'll break out the books when I get home.  Another time to learn from books is refreshing an old skill.  If we haven't done it in a while, we figure reading it through will put us back on track.  And of course, sometimes we want to learn how to do something when we have no opportunity for a friend or colleague to teach us.

The bummer is that we'll spend a small fortune on a book only to learn that it doesn't make sense to us.  Not every book is meant for every knitter.  How do you know what book is a really good bet?  Borrow from the library or a friend first, whenever you can.  A preview will increase your odds of buying the book that works best for you.  Can't find what you need?  I'll recommend some of my favorites.

The way I build or rebuild a skill when I need improving is by knitting swatches.  I've made a couple of blankets this way, just by making all the swatches the same size and in coordinating colors.  There is a wonderful book by Barbara Walker called the "Learn to Knit Afghan Book" that takes this concept as far as I can imagine it.  Her directions are very straightforward.  She walks us through knit, purl, mosaic stitch, cables, lace, and a variety of shaping techniques one small square at a time.   Since each square is a manageable size, it isn't at all intimidating.  And you can make as many or as few squares of each type as you need to feel good about a skill before moving on.  Combine them into blankets, pillows, bags, etc. There are several editions of this book available - it originally came out almost 40 years ago - so you can pick it up new or used, locally or on line.  It's well worth it.

Another indispensable book is Seven Things That Can "Make or Break" a Sweater, by Margaret E. Fisher.  Published in 2008, it is a common sense guide in the vein of what a close girlfriend would teach you as you sip coffee on her couch.  Ms. Fisher walks us through the knitting and assembly of a child's sweater.  It builds and reinforces all the necessary skills, but in a small sized garment that won't cost a fortune in yarn or time.  I've seen several brand new knitters turn out lovely garments on the first try by using this book.  Even if you don't have a special child in mind to receive the finished sweater, buy this book and make this sweater.  Maybe make more than one.  The sweater is adorable!

The Knitting Answer Book by Margaret Radcliffe is always in my knitting bag.  The layout is unique, in that the entire book is a question and answer format.  It's my go-to answer guide to confirm the order of steps in a particular bind off style, making an unusual button hole, and just about everything else.  (It would be swell if she'd write a book about coping with teenagers, but I digress.)  It's very small and lightweight, so it's the ideal guide for your project bag.

Looking to get into socks?  The first few pair are going to involve a learning curve.  Rather than get a big book with dozens of involved patterns, I recommend How to Knit Socks by Edie Eckman.  There are ten attractive but uncomplicated patterns.  She explores three basic methods of knitting socks in the round, on several needle sizes and sock sizes.  DPNs, magic loop method, and working on two circular needles are all represented, and explained with clear and simple instructions.  You'll enjoy knitting your first socks from this resource.