Swatches LIE - ?

Dr. House - "Everybody Lies"

One of the many compicated things about being a knitter is that no two expert knitters seem to give the same advice on anything. They don't agree on what material needles you should use, what shape of cable needles are best, what fibers are best (acrylic, anyone?), circs or straights - what's a knitter to do?

"Imperfections are how you know it was handmade!"  Has anyone ever fed you this line of #*>&?  I'm pretty sure artists from Rembrandt to Nicky Epstein have never subscribed to this theory.  "There is no one right way."  I love this line too, because it completely ignores the fact that there are thousands of wrong ways.  You can make a row of knitting that looks okay to you, but is, in fact, wrong, and going to screw up the row above or below it.  There is, sometimes, one right way.

But my all-time favorite bit of knitting "wisdom" is "I never swatch.  Swatches LIE!"  My response is, "Not if you raise them right." 

Like an errant child, misbehaving swatches need to be corrected.  Why do we swatch?  To learn specific details about how our garment is going to look, brush up on techniques, discover how much yarn we'll need, and so much more.

Here's how to make a swatch that works:

1.  Use the same yarn on the same needles.  If you're going to knit your project with Cascade 220 on US 6 addi Turbos, don't swatch on US 6 bamboo straights.  It does matter.  Every needle has a different finish, which affects the size of each stitch.  Remember, across 25 stitches a difference in guage seems small.  Across 150 stitches, and 100 rows, any difference magnifies to several inches too small or too large.

2.  Row gauge matters most of the time, so make sure you get it right.  Yes, it does.  I don't care what you've heard.  If you have the correct stitch gauge and the incorrect row gauge, change needle surfaces.  In general, bamboo will give you the shortest stitches, and nickel will give you the tallest.  If your stitches are short, switch to needles that are slipperier.  If they're tall, choose something stickier, like plastic or bamboo.

3.  If you're going to knit in the round, swatch in the round.  Yes, really.  Everyone purls more tightly than they knit, and knitting in the round tends to create slightly taller stitches.  You'll still need to make a swatch that's 4-6 inches wide, meaning it will be 8-12 inches in total circumference.  Yes, it takes longer.  The round one will be accurate.  The flat one won't.  Make the round one.

4.  Swatch until you achieve a fabric you like.  If you don't like it when it's 6 inches square, you won't like it when it's a full garment.  If you hate it small, substitute yarns until you find one you like, and make a fabric you'll love to wear.  Remember, no matter how good the picture looks, you'll be wearing this, not the model.  If you can't achieve a fabric you love with the pattern instructions, that's not the pattern for you.

5.  Read the whole pattern, and swatch each part.  I know, maybe the instructions told you to swatch over stockinette only.  Groovy.  I've never known two people to knit lace or cables or pretty much any significant stitch pattern in the same gauge as their stockinette.  The pattern author doesn't have to wear the garment.  You do.  Swatch the design elements.  You'll do a better job with them in your garment, and your garment will more likely fit.

6.  If you're knitting in colorwork, swatch in colorwork.  Yep.  I know.  But there isn't really any point in arguing with me.  Not only am I unable to hear you, I'm right.  Most people have a very different gauge in colorwork.  Just do it.

7.  Once you've achieved a swatch you like, launder it according to the instructions on the ball band, and block it.  Very small differences in gauge can easily be corrected in the blocking phase.  In particular, design elements (stuff that isn't plain stockinette) rarely lay properly until they're blocked anyway.  And this is the time you'll find out if your colors run.  Nothing ruins a great colorwork project like one color running all over another.  If your swatch doesn't launder well, seriously consider starting over in a different yarn. 

This is how to make a swatch that doesn't lie.  If you make a swatch and break any of the above rules, don't complain about the finished product.  You've been warned.

Colorwork 2 - basics

Knitting colorwork will make a thicker fabric in every case except striping.  So, let's consider that.  There are benefits to having a thicker fabric, including added warmth and added durability, but these can also be drawbacks.  You want your garment to be appropriate to its intended use.  Sweaters that make you sweaty are rarely a good thing.

How much warmer will the garment be?  Assuming you're using two yarns of the same weight, it's going to be about 1/2 warmer, based on how much air it traps.  So if you're working a sweater in 1 strand of worsted wool, it gives you about 10 degrees F of temperature insulation.  In colorwork, it will give you about 15 degrees F of insulation.  If that's too much, go down a weight in both yarns to a DK.  You'll have approximately equal warmth.

The same goes for durability.  The increase in durability comes from the two layers of yarn.  If you're looking to knit a fabric with a very delicate texture, you may need to lighten your yarn choices.  If you're trying to make a certain yarn more durable, and thicker is desirable, wool, silk and linen are very strong.  Nylon, rayon and tencel are usually very strong.  Mohair, angora, alpaca, and cashmere are all usually spun quite loosely, and are fibers that are weaker in all cases.  This combining of two different yarns works best in cases of two yarns held together.

Remember that when you're contemplating a colorwork project, you'll need to buy more yarn.  You need to remember that you'll be buying at least one skein per color.  If the pattern is unclear about the amount needed of each color, ask your handy LYS clerk.  They will guide you to the correct amount, and you can shop with confidence.

Naturally, you'll also need to swatch in colorwork.  I don't care what the pattern says.  Everyone's gauge is different in colorwork than it is in plain knits.  (It's also always tighter in the round than on straights, but I digress.) Knit along and get your gauge.  You'll be eternally glad you didn't waste your time making an entire garment that is the wrong size.

Next article: getting the project on the needles.

Straight Needle Gloves - Sneak Peek!

This is the swatch for the first pattern of the Gift Knits Kit Club!  The pattern is finished, and I'm knitting the sample today. (Yep, those are some little bitty cables on there!)  It's for GLOVES, and it is written and charted for BOTH straight needles AND for those who knit in the round.

There will be a contrasting, dark brick colored cuff.  The yarn for the body of the glove is called "Embers", 100% Superwash Merino DK Super Sheep, and it's from Holiday Yarns.  I love it!  It's knits up soft and warm and dreamy. The yarn alone retails for $22.00!  The whole kit, mailed to your door, is just $27. 

I'm making each of these items as a Holiday knit ahead for the 2012 holidays, so next year I'll be less frantic about finishing my gift knits list. 

I've just opened a few more spots in the club, so join us!

Gift Knit Kit Club Features: 
New kit each month including original Liz Marino pattern and premium yarns to make the Gift Knit of the Month, shipped on or about the 15th of the month

Exclusive Liz Marino Club patterns will not be made available to non-club members until 3 months after Club release date

Kits will not be made available retroactively or to non-members

Jan = Straight needle gloves for her (s,m,l)
Feb = Snuggly Socks - adult (men, women)
Mar = Woven-look Purse
Apr = Eco-Friendly Washcloth Gift Pack
May = Holiday Knit-Ahead Hat
June = Yoga Stirrup Socks - one size

No substitutions are available.  Color and size is determined by Liz Marino.  Each month's kit is the only kit available for that month.  Kits are not available retroactively. 

Membership will not be automatically renewed for July-Dec.  Membership will be opened to current members in April and non-members in May based on availability.

Membership is open to North American mailing addresses only.  The price is $27 per month, for a total of $162 USD.  Payment must be received in full; no month to month memberships are available.

Thanks for joining this adventure!  I can hardly wait!

After joining, email me at esliney@yahoo.com with your:

Name
Shipping address

Do this even if they are the same as the ones on your PayPal ID, please, just to confirm!  I want to make sure I know how to reach you via email and USPS.  If this info is not emailed, your membership will be rejected and your payment will be returned.  Thanks!

Knitting Math - 4 Vertical Patterns/Repeats

We all know by now that we need to keep an eye on our stitch gauge.  The number of stitches per inch is how we know whether a piece will be the size we were aiming for: too few and it's too big, and too many and it's too small.  But what about row gauge?

This is not the time to get faint of heart.  Row gauge is important for many types of patterns, and nearly always for vertical patterns.  Colorwork only works in exact numbers of rows (not "knit 4 inches"), and if your row gauge is off, your piece will be too long or too short.  Shapes that were intended to be circles become ovals, squares become rectangles, and the pattern becomes a funhouse mirror version of the original.  Knowing your row gauge makes several things easier.

The socks at left were knit and posted on Ravelry by Stacey14, from a pattern by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts in her book, Ethnic Socks and Stockings.  There are several patterns here, some running vertically and some horizontally.  If you need to shorten or lengthen a vertical repeat, what do you do?  Maybe you want a shorter version of this sock.  Now what?

Well, you need to do your math.  (This is why the Lord created calculators and scrap paper!)  If the total pattern repeat is designed to be 1 3/4 inches tall, and you want a shorter sock, no problem.  First, knit a swatch including two pattern repeats.  Measure your row gauge.  Does it match the pattern?  If yes, cool.  You'll want to decrease in whole repeats to maintain the look, so you'll decrease the finished size by increments of 1 3/4 inches.  If the total sock has a 12 inch leg, with each full pattern repeat you take out, you subtract 1 3/4 inches. Originally there were 6 repeats + cuff = 7 units of height.  Don't take off the cuff - it anchors the look.  Remove one or more of the leg motif repeats.

Total length in inches - (number of repeats x 1.75 inches) = new total length. 

But what if your row gauge doesn't match the pattern?  Well, there are two ways to go - try to get the row gauge, or live with your unique gauge.  I tend to go with the one that matches the pattern, because it retains the original shapes in the design.  If your stitches are right on, and rows are off, you have the right needle size, but not the right material.  Too few rows mean you need stickier needles (bamboo like Clover, or non-slippery plastic, like Denise) and too many rows mean you need slippery needles (Addi's or Boye.)  If this works, you're all set to move on. 

If you're already using the recommended needle material, it's probably you.  Maybe you knit a little tightly, or a little loosely by nature.  No worries.  Stick with your unique gauge.  Then to get the dimensions in the pattern, you may need to knit more or fewer total rows.  If you're knitting at 1 1/2 inches per pattern repeat, you'll need to do 7 repeats + cuff = 8 total to make it the length specified in the pattern. The design will look like a shorter, fatter version of the original, and if you like it, go with it. (If not, pick a new pattern!)

(Total length) 12 / 1.5 (height of repeat) = 8

Wouldn't it be cool if it all worked out that way?  Well, it usually does.  But sometimes you want your garment to be longer or shorter in an increment different from the repeat.  If you have a 2 3/4 inch repeat and you only need 4 more inches, you won't be able to work in full pattern repeats and still get the measurements you want.  That means you either pick a different pattern, or you live with a partial repeat somewhere.  Put the partial repeat in the less visible part of the garment, usually the bottom.  You'll do your regular math of

Row gauge x total desired length = total number of rows - then -

Total # of rows / number of rows in one repeat = number of repeats, with the remainder being the number of extra rows

If you need to do a partial repeat at the bottom, you'll want to work the top part of the pattern in the extra rows.  If you need to do a partial repeat at the top, do the bottom part of the pattern. 

You can do this.  Get some coffee or tea, and your scrap paper and calculator, and do the math first.  Sketch it on some graph paper to make sure it makes sense.  Write out your new directions as thoroughly as possible so you don't have to do the work again.  Then, get knitting!

Knitting Math 1 - Non-fiction

I've been on both sides of the issue of Knitting Math:  does it exist, or doesn't it?  Math is math, right?  Or is it like Business Math, and Cooking Math, where some functions are key to everything else working?

I am now firmly a believer in Knitting Math.  Designing knitwear is one part sketching, 15 or 20 parts math, one part writing the pattern, and one big part knitting.

SIZE
If I want to design something simple like a baby blanket, I need to figure out how big I want it.  Then I need to figure out what yarn I want to use.  Then I knit test swatches to determine the gauge that gives me the look I want.  Let's say it's 6 stitches x 7 rows.

Next, I need to multiply the width of the blanket by the stitches per inch.  If I want the blanket to be 3 feet wide, that's 36 inches x 6 stitches per inch = 216 stitches.  This becomes the cast on number.

If I want it to also be 36 inches long, for a square blanket, I need to multiply 36 inches x 7 rows = 252.  Now I can create a graph, and start marking out stitches and color patterns.

Stitch gauge and row gauge are the essential two pieces of information for almost all "knitting math."  If you want your blanket larger, you multiply each inch by 6 stitches or 7 rows to know how much to add.  Likewise if you choose to make a smaller blanket, you subtract 6 stitches or 7 rows for each inch you want to subtract. 

YARDAGE
The gauge swatch gives you another critical piece of math to do - figure out how much yarn you're going to need.  Make a swatch that is whole inches on both the top and the side (like 4x6).  Multiply, and you get 24 square inches. 

Now cut the swatch off the ball, and weigh it on an accurate scale.  What does it weigh?  In this case, 1 gram.  The ball comes in 100 yards per 50 grams.  For now, disregard the yardage, and just focus on the weight.  That means each gram will cover 24 square inches.  Multiply that by 50 and you get 1200 square inches of knitting per ball. 

Multiply your original 36x36 blanket size out to square inches, and you get 1296 inches.  This tells me that one ball of yarn won't quite do it,  and you'll need to start a second ball. 

DIFFERENCE IN GAUGE
But what if you don't knit to the gauge specified in the pattern?  What if you knit to 5 stitches and 6 rows per inch instead?  You're going to need a lot more yarn.  Those same 216 stitches now represent 43 inches of knitting instead of the original  36.  The 252 rows now make 42 inches instead of 36.  Now your blanket is 1806 square inches.  Now you'll need 1 and 1/2 balls of yarn, because your piece is almost 30% larger than the designer planned for, and that's if your gauge is only off by one stitch!

I know, it seems like a lot to digest.  It's not really.  Look up any pattern in any magazine, and do the math.  You'll see that it works out every time.  A little practice (and a calculator) makes it easy to remember what to do and how to do it.

Adjusting a Pattern So It Fits You

Teaching a class yesterday, I was told of one knitter's frustration at trying to find patterns for garments her size.  I sympathized.  As nice as it would be if patterns said something like, "Liz, this will fit you perfectly if you just use a US 6 needle," they never do.  "Do you swatch?" I asked.

"Well, not if it doesn't come in my size."

If the pattern is only off by a size or two, this doesn't have to be a problem.  Grab a calculator, and adjust the gauge so that the pattern works for you.  We're not changing the number of stitches, just the size of the stitches.  Let's do a mitten pattern.  The pattern makes a women's large mitten, 8.5 inches around at a gauge of 7 stitches to the inch, and the pattern is 60 stitches around on worsted yarn. 

What size do you want?  Measure around your palm with a measuring tape.  Add a quarter to a half an inch for a normal mitten.  What's the total?  If you wear a women's small mitten, probably 7.5 inches total around for the mitten.  So let's do the math. 

60 stitches divided by 7.5 inches = 8 stitches to the inch.  So we either need smaller needles or smaller yarn.  Which one?

Look up the recommended yarn on the manufacturer web site.  Let's say the pattern says 7 stitches per inch on US 5 needles, and the website says the yarn is rated for 5 stitches per inch on US 7s.  This means the pattern is written for the yarn to be very compressed, making a denser fabric.  Compressing it further will make it hard to to work with.  So go down one yarn weight. Knit a gauge swatch with the recommended needles, and you'll be close.  Adjust needle size if necessary.  (Too many stitches per inch?  Go up a needle size.  Too few?  Go down a needle size.)  Within half an hour you'll be all set with the correct yarn weight and needle size.

If the yarn is rated for 6 stitches per inch on US 3 needles, then the original pattern is written for the stitches to be very loose.  Using the recommended yarn, go down in needle sizes until your gauge swatch gives you the proper gauge.

Make sure to count fractions of a stitch. (This is why you want swatches of at least 4" by 4".  Fractions of a stitch are easier to gauge when measured over several inches.)  On a garment with 100 stitches cast on, being off by a quarter stitch can mean several inches of extra or missing fabric. 

That's it.  Two minutes with a calculator and the internet and you'll be starting a project guaranteed to fit!

Brioche Experiments

I tried to relearn brioche stitch yesterday.  This photo represents my attempt, unblocked, mistakes and all. It was a hand made light worsted weight yarn, knit on 7s, then 5s.

I decided to start with a one yarn brioche swatch to get my brain around how brioche works. (The pattern I'm working towards is in two yarns.)  My knitting paranoia immediately kicked in.  I knit a few rows, didn't see what I expected to see, and ripped back and started again.  I did this three times.  I was getting nowhere, fast. 

I still  didn't trust it, and made some mistakes, but I didn't rip again. Then I got engaged in a conversation, and voila, it was fine! (Funny that I always do better when I stop thinking.) When I looked down at the work, I liked it.  Then I decided to try it on 5s.  A few more mistakes happened ( I didn't say I  made them **looking around suspiciously**) but I liked it better a little tighter.

Now that I get the concept, on to two color.  Then on to the scarf.  Then the vest.  It's a lot of prep for one little vest, but I'm so excited to put a new skill in my toolbox I don't care!  I hope if you don't do brioche stitch yet you'll try it.  Use this link to a YouTube video tutorial.  A written plan can be found in Vogue Stitchionary One, and The Encyclopedia of Knitting. Try it!

A Swatch Journey

Swatches have such a strange reputation!  Some people look at them as a necessary evil, others a waste of time, and still others love them and see them as a resource.



Cascade 220 sampler afghan.  Pattern available.



My experiences with swatches have included all of the above.  And then I took a journey.  I had come back knitting after a hiatus of several years, and had knit quite a few projects.  I was worried, though, because I would read a pattern and not be able to remember how to do certain techniques I used to zip through with ease 20 years ago.  I very quickly felt boxed in with what I was able to do, and phobic that I might get into a project only to discover I didn't know how to finish it.  So I decided to swatch every skill I had any interest in or possible future need for.

It was just a notion until I saw a sampler afghan that a friend had crocheted.  Aha!  A possible use for all these swatches beyond a simple learning project!  Shortly after that I was off to the races.  I started simple with relearning stripes.  One swatch down.  Then intarsia blocks.  I probably worked and ripped two swatches for every one I finished in the beginning.  (My daughter ripped out a finished one early on because she had seen Mommy do it.  I cried.)  I was sure I was doomed.

I was also crazy busy during the day with work and four kids and a very sick mother in law, and a bunch of other madness.  When I wanted to knit, I only had a couple of minutes to maybe an hour.  I couldn't start a new project or take a class, so I kept cranking out swatches.  Cables...  Basketweaves...  Bobbles were nearly the end of me and my knitting career. 

Life settled down, and I had 19 swatches.  I realized I really had a shot at finishing this sampler afghan after all.  And as decided to repeat some of the blocks I was amazed at how much easier they were the second and then the third time.  The blanket ended up being 36 blocks large, and although I can tell which blocks were early swatches and which I did at the end, it looks pretty good, even now, 5 years later.  I'm grateful to my swatch journey for reinforcing (and sometimes inventing) my knitting skills.  And I'm very grateful when I see my kids cozied up under the finished afghan.  I made that!  I learned so much. Swatches and I are friends now.